Sunday, January 20, 2013

Hmmmm, Where's My Seam Ripper?

So I'm making the Wiksten Tova. Thank goodness for Kerry's Sew Along because this pattern is not for the super-newbie garment sewist. And that would be me.
It's not impossible mind you but there is a learning curve.



verykerryberry.blogspot.com
Kerry's sew-along tips have been really helpful but even still it's trial and error for me.

Good thing I started with a muslin version.

Sewing in the placket is a doozy. I reread those directions 20 times and the right corner still came out wrong and curved. I have high hopes that when I make the real version it will go better. Probably so.

I have to say I found the sleeve instructions bare bones. The pattern says "pin underarm seams right sides together and sew at 3/8ths." Yup, that's it.

So I pinned where it said to pin and sewed half way around but then discovered that there is more to setting in a sleeve than that.  I then found Kerry's section on sleeves. (Note to self- next time read ahead!) But even after gathering the top of my sleeve I managed to have gathers and it wasn't smooth. Guess it's a good thing there are two sleeves so I can practice more on the other one!

I guess if you've sewn garments before this is obvious but it wasn't to me. But now I know.

Seriously, what I need is a garment sewing tutor - somebody to teach me the right way to do this stuff. Anyone, anyone?

I have to say though that trying it on, before the sleeves, was rather gratifying because it did actually look like a garment I would wear and wear out of the house even! Imagine that.

Now that the a sleeve is in, I think it feels a bit small. I made a medium but I have broad shoulders and it feels tight across the back with the sleeve in. Which is again, why it's been worth it making a practice round first! Whew.

I think I'll set this aside for today and work on something quick and easy like a zip pouch.

Tomorrow there is plenty of time for the Tova!

xo,
Jennifer

20 comments:

Kathleen said...

Jennifer, I've been sewing clothes for years and never made a mock up. That is so wise. You are doing wonderfully and you know what? I kind of like the gathers on the sleeve! :) Can't wait to see the finished project!

Courtney said...

Maybe you should try Rae's washi dress as her step by step directions and photos are probably easier to follow. I'm sure you are going to do a great job with the real version, your muslin looks great!

Katy Cameron said...

Oh yes, muslins are always a wise way to go! Because of my proportions (aka super-size bust) I always have to make one and adapt it!

Shawn Stephenson Schumacher said...

I did not make a muslin of the Tova and regret it.
I made a size large and had to put darts in the back so it did not look Like a moo moo. Yours is looking great. The Collete handbook for beginning sewers has been helping me without a teacher.

klara said...

when you put in sleeves, you find there is extra material on the sleeve than on the armhole, that is the way it should be, to get it proper turn your bodypart inside out. slide the sleeve in the armhole and pin the seam underarm together, fold the sleeve and pint the upper middle to the shoulder seam, now roll the sleeve and the armhole together to the outside a little, and pin the sleeve to the armhole, after that sew it with a running stitch before sewing it with the machine, you will see that the extra material doesnot make pleats any more.
I hope you understand as english is not my first language it is difficult to explain

klara said...

this video shows what I mean http://vimeo.com/26620566
good luck

Karen at Birdsong Cabin said...

I know how frustrating it can be!! Let me know if you find a pattern line that has great instructions for newbie garment makers. I need lots of hand holding and visual instructions. I have been asking around and have not found anyone locally yet. Let's keep looking.

Karen E.

Leanne said...

The ease in a sleeve may address the tightness in the shoulders you feel. The video mentioned earlier is excellent, or maybe look for a real life class as there are a lot of hints a teacher can give you to make your garments three dimensional and thus well fitting. Don't give up.

diane said...

I was a garment sewist before a quilter but it's been years. I might need to give it a try again because there are so many cute patterns out there now. I'm glad you are practicing before ruining any good fabric.

QuiltSwissy said...

both my Grandmother and Mother were seamstresses who sewed for the rich ladies in New Orleans. I was forced as a child to sew as well. I hated it! It was truly child labor.

When I turned 18, I married the first boy I could find and never sewed another garment! LOL.

I was lucky in the boy, and still don't sew garments!

glen

Holli said...

So glad you're making this and sharing your progress. I am inspired to perhaps create one to wear at the retreat also. I'm not a garment sewer (yet). Klara's suggestion on the sleeve is great - thanks! I actually like the curve at the right corner of the placket. Good luck!

Paige said...

Lack of sleeves is part of the reason I am starting with the Socialite Dress and not the Schoolhouse Tunic! I'm wimpy. I think your muslin WIksten looks pretty good so far though!

Crickets Corner said...

I've been sewing for longer than I care to admit and think you're doing great. You might want to try sewing the sleeve in using the flat sew in method. I learned to sew the sleeves in flat while working in the garment industry where speed is everything. There are several videos just google flat sewing set in sleeves.

Cathy K said...

Speaking honestly here, the best way to learn sewing basics is to start out with a commercial 'easy to sew' pattern. Many of them, if not most, include detailed, basic instructions and tutorials for myriad techniques. Just as its much easier to learn to drive a car with an automatic transmission and then learn a manual transmission, it's easier to learn techniques and patternspeak with a basic commercial pattern than to start with a specialty, often cryptic private pattern (with much less rigorous testing standards). Once you have the hang of it, though, the pattern world is yours!

Pam Pollock said...

Your top looks beautiful. My philosophy when making clothes is; it doesn't matter if you follow the directions exactly, just make sure both sides match each other.

Kristan said...

Sorry this is giving you so much trouble! I am giving the Simplicity Lisette patterns a go. My sister made a muslin of the Tova in the size I would make and it looks really terrible on me, like maternity clothes. I'm still not confident enough to try to alter the pattern myself!

Hannah said...

I made one of these last year as my first ever garment and I found Kerry's additional instructions totally invaluable. I couldn't have done it without. And I didn't do a trial run. I hate making things twice!! It worked out great though

Flying Blind... said...

Some superb advice left already xxx

Strawberry Patch said...

Yep, not leaving any different advice other than to stick with it, you will be so pleased when you finish it. Good luck! X

Valerie said...

This is why I'm a quilter! Three dimensional sewing scares me. How awesome that you dive right in! Can't wait to see the finished product!